This blog has been cut and pasted from an original blog, the passwords to which have been lost long ago. Some errors may have crept in through the cutting and pasting that has gone on.
What's interesting in recreating the blog of a journey taken in 2008, after 8 years or so have gone by, is to see just how life changing this was. I had considered myself a cyclist for many years prior to doing LEJoG but this was my first tour. It was not to be my last. Since then I've cycled across Spain and completed most of the North Sea Cycle Route; all of these written up into blogs too. Click for my full profile to see links to my other blogs. The fact is, as I've come to discover, I simply love to be going somewhere on my bike. Of course, I've had to add to my stable as the years have gone by! LEJoG was undertaken on my commuting bike, A Dawes Horizon. This was later replaced with another Dawes (A Karakum) which did stirling work carrying me across Spain, the Netherlands and Germany before my present steed, a Koga, arrived upon the scene. The Koga is my dream bike so I'm sticking at that, maybe......
Besides the long tours, I've crossed the country a few times and ridden a few of the recognised routes so maybe they will get written up too.
I'm hoping that I still have lots of miles to travel, new friends to meet and more memories to create. The plan for 2016 is to do the North Sea Cycle Route through Sweden and Norway.
I love cycling and always enjoy swapping tales and ideas so please get in touch.
david.gladman@gmail.com
I'll be pleased to hear from you.
Monday 11 January 2016
The Journey Day 16 Lybster to John O Groats
Day 16 Lybster to John O Groats
We had a leisurely breakfast and talked with our host about the place and the impact of oil in the area. On venturing out we had bright sunshine with a light breeze. Very different to the day before. We rolled down towards the sea before finally setting off for our final ride at about 9.30 – far later than normal!
We kept up a cracking pace to Wick being over 20 mph much of the time. It was through Wick and simply enjoying the wonderful weather and the coastline. We met quite a few cyclists just setting off in the other direction with much cheerful waving. Finally, the Orkney Islands came into view and there was just a nice gentle descent into John O Groats and we were there at about 12.30. The champagne came out and we had the obligatory photo before going into the Journeys End for a final lunch. Quite a few people came up ask if we had just complet
ed the E2E including a New Zealander who had finished a day or two before.
Andrew’s bike had developed a severe knocking on the back wheel over the last two days, so his bike was taken apart to put inside the car whilst the others went on the bike rack. We packed the panniers inside before setting off again. Travelling in a car seemed very strange at first! We stopped at Helmsdale again for coffee before finally going back to Carbisdale Castle to celebrate Richards birthday.
After dinner we discussed what next. The trip had given us all a taste for long distance cycling and we were all eager to op more. What and when are still being discussed.
We kept up a cracking pace to Wick being over 20 mph much of the time. It was through Wick and simply enjoying the wonderful weather and the coastline. We met quite a few cyclists just setting off in the other direction with much cheerful waving. Finally, the Orkney Islands came into view and there was just a nice gentle descent into John O Groats and we were there at about 12.30. The champagne came out and we had the obligatory photo before going into the Journeys End for a final lunch. Quite a few people came up ask if we had just complet
ed the E2E including a New Zealander who had finished a day or two before.Andrew’s bike had developed a severe knocking on the back wheel over the last two days, so his bike was taken apart to put inside the car whilst the others went on the bike rack. We packed the panniers inside before setting off again. Travelling in a car seemed very strange at first! We stopped at Helmsdale again for coffee before finally going back to Carbisdale Castle to celebrate Richards birthday.
After dinner we discussed what next. The trip had given us all a taste for long distance cycling and we were all eager to op more. What and when are still being discussed.
The Journey Day 15 Carbisdale Castle to Lybster
Day 15 Carbisdale Castle to Lybster
Another early start saw us deciding what to wear before we finally rolled off at 7.30 am. It was a wet morning with light rain. The rain got heavier during the course of the morning and we were well soaked. John and Andrew donned full wet weather gear. We headed back towards the A9 and found somewhere for breakfast as soon as we joined that road. We warmed up in the café before we set off again, still having the pleasure of steady rain. We were keeping our heads down and keeping going all the way up to Helmsdale where we stopped for lunch, Susan having found a nice café (Create!). Whilst in the café it stopped raining, which was good news, but as we looked across Helmsdale we could see the bottom of what I had seen described as “interesting hills after Helmsdale” but the rest was shrouded in heavy mist / low cloud.
Having no choice but to go on and the A9 being the only road available we set off. There followed a really difficult afternoon, and one which we took some pride in having read of the difficulties faced by other end to enders. Our journey so far had been mostly sunshine, so having a bad day to survive gave us some brownie points. The mist / cloud stayed with us the rest of the
afternoon and we ended up split into two pairs. Andrew and John well in front with Richard and me behind. We had all donned our brightest fluorescent jackets and fixed rear flashing lights on the bikes but we nevertheless realised the dangers as the A9 is a busy road. Traffic tended to come by in clusters, usually led by a coach or HGV. We were trying to ride on the white line at edge of the road. This was not easy as there were some good hills to climb (even though we couldn’t really see them). Where there were descents we kept speed down so that we could hear traffic behind and move off the road, where possible, to allow it to pass. To add to all of this, we kept getting strong head winds which also slowed progress without clearing the mist.
It was a long slow ride to Lybster and by the time we arrived at 6.30 pm I had nothing left. The wet, the cold and the terrain having drained me completely. The accommodation proved excellent (The Commercial Hotel) as we had a suite of rooms and a living room at our disposal. We were directed to a takeaway down the main street. By the time we were ready to eat, the list had cleared and we were left with a sunny evening, again, even if it was now quite a bit cooler.
A good nights sleep was had by all ready for the final 30 miles.
Having no choice but to go on and the A9 being the only road available we set off. There followed a really difficult afternoon, and one which we took some pride in having read of the difficulties faced by other end to enders. Our journey so far had been mostly sunshine, so having a bad day to survive gave us some brownie points. The mist / cloud stayed with us the rest of the
afternoon and we ended up split into two pairs. Andrew and John well in front with Richard and me behind. We had all donned our brightest fluorescent jackets and fixed rear flashing lights on the bikes but we nevertheless realised the dangers as the A9 is a busy road. Traffic tended to come by in clusters, usually led by a coach or HGV. We were trying to ride on the white line at edge of the road. This was not easy as there were some good hills to climb (even though we couldn’t really see them). Where there were descents we kept speed down so that we could hear traffic behind and move off the road, where possible, to allow it to pass. To add to all of this, we kept getting strong head winds which also slowed progress without clearing the mist.It was a long slow ride to Lybster and by the time we arrived at 6.30 pm I had nothing left. The wet, the cold and the terrain having drained me completely. The accommodation proved excellent (The Commercial Hotel) as we had a suite of rooms and a living room at our disposal. We were directed to a takeaway down the main street. By the time we were ready to eat, the list had cleared and we were left with a sunny evening, again, even if it was now quite a bit cooler.
A good nights sleep was had by all ready for the final 30 miles.
The Journey Day 14 Loch Ness to Carbisdale Castle
Day 14 Loch Ness to Carbisdale Castle
We were off bright and early again with two bowls of cereal in us. It wasn’t long before we hot our biggest hill to date. The landlady at Lancaster had asked us if we were going through somewhere with a name that seemed unpronounceable to me. I soon recognised this as Drumnadrochit and the hill was the biggest so far as we climbed over The Aird. It is only when you start to drop again that you realise just how high the climb was. The descent down to (and the views of) the Beauly Firth told us just how high we had climbed. I also had my fastest descent here, reaching 42 mph. We dropped down into rolling countryside and made our way to Dingwall where Susan was meeting us to give us some support over the last few days, and to help with the logistics of getting home again.
From Dingwall we made for the A9 and then onto the B9176 to Bonar Bridge. We found the A( somewhat mad after the quiet roads and it brought to mind a conversation with a Leeds teacher we had met when riding out from Loch Ness. He had ridden up to JoG from Leeds and told us that the A9 out from Inverness was the worst bit of road he had ridden.
Again we had climbs in the afternoon but were again rewarded with magnificent views over the Dornoch Firth and faster descending.
We turned off the main road at Bonar Bridge to take the 5 miles of minor roads to Carbisdale Castle. This was somewhere that we were looking forwards to and we were not disappointed. Sat in luxurious surroundings after dinner we discussed the route for the next day. Were we heading for the north coast and Bettyhill, or were we going up the shorter A9 towards Helmsdale? In then event, the A9 won and we phoned around to find accommodation in Lybster the following night.
From Dingwall we made for the A9 and then onto the B9176 to Bonar Bridge. We found the A( somewhat mad after the quiet roads and it brought to mind a conversation with a Leeds teacher we had met when riding out from Loch Ness. He had ridden up to JoG from Leeds and told us that the A9 out from Inverness was the worst bit of road he had ridden.
Again we had climbs in the afternoon but were again rewarded with magnificent views over the Dornoch Firth and faster descending.
We turned off the main road at Bonar Bridge to take the 5 miles of minor roads to Carbisdale Castle. This was somewhere that we were looking forwards to and we were not disappointed. Sat in luxurious surroundings after dinner we discussed the route for the next day. Were we heading for the north coast and Bettyhill, or were we going up the shorter A9 towards Helmsdale? In then event, the A9 won and we phoned around to find accommodation in Lybster the following night.
The Journey Day 13 Glencoe to Loch Ness
Day 13 Glencoe to Loch Ness
We knew that this was a relatively short day so we aimed to get to Loch Ness and have the afternoon off. That being the case we were up and off for 7.30 am, dropping down into Glencoe village and the local store for breakfast cereal bars. Luckily, the shop also had a good arrangement with the Hostel and they let me leave the key that I had brought with me from the hostel.
We followed the A82 again, stopping to take photo’s from the bridge at Ballacullish and then having the pleasure of riding alongside Loch Linnhe to Fort William where a real breakfast beckoned. There we found cyclists heaven – a café next door to a bike shop. After a look around the bike shop we were into the café and had breakfast chatting to some chaps who had been out on canoes for a few days.
Than back on the bikes with Andrew and I managing to do a full lap of the town centre before we caught up with John and Richard. Back onto the A82 our next stop was the Commando Memorial at Spean Bridge before riding along the banks of Loch Locky and through Invergarry to Fort Augustus. Again it was time to eat so we bought food from the local store and ate at the side of the locks of the Caledonian Canal. For the first time we found ourselves in a place filled with tourists but we enjoyed the atmosphere and it was the only time throughout the trip that we had the pleasure (?) of listening to a piper.
Richard had decided to cook a meal, seeing as we anticipated an early finish, so the ingredients were bought and we set off for the hostel at Loch Ness, for once arriving before 5.00 pm. Although we had not managed to have a free afternoon, we had enjoyed a good hour or so at Fort Augustus and we all relaxed into a pleasant evening. We all visited the loch side at some time, but found midges in abundance!
We followed the A82 again, stopping to take photo’s from the bridge at Ballacullish and then having the pleasure of riding alongside Loch Linnhe to Fort William where a real breakfast beckoned. There we found cyclists heaven – a café next door to a bike shop. After a look around the bike shop we were into the café and had breakfast chatting to some chaps who had been out on canoes for a few days.
Than back on the bikes with Andrew and I managing to do a full lap of the town centre before we caught up with John and Richard. Back onto the A82 our next stop was the Commando Memorial at Spean Bridge before riding along the banks of Loch Locky and through Invergarry to Fort Augustus. Again it was time to eat so we bought food from the local store and ate at the side of the locks of the Caledonian Canal. For the first time we found ourselves in a place filled with tourists but we enjoyed the atmosphere and it was the only time throughout the trip that we had the pleasure (?) of listening to a piper.
Richard had decided to cook a meal, seeing as we anticipated an early finish, so the ingredients were bought and we set off for the hostel at Loch Ness, for once arriving before 5.00 pm. Although we had not managed to have a free afternoon, we had enjoyed a good hour or so at Fort Augustus and we all relaxed into a pleasant evening. We all visited the loch side at some time, but found midges in abundance!
The Journey Day 12 Loch Lomond to Glencoe
Day 12 Loch Lomond to Glencoe
For once the day started with rain. The rain was fairly light and did little to spoil the day. At first we rode on the A82 but later discovered the Loch Lomond cycle trail down by the loch side. This gave us better opportunity for a pleasant ride and more opportunities for photo stops, of which there were several. The light rain and cloud made for some very moody photos.
There was some climbing to be done as we reached the end of the loch and started up to Crianlarich. By the time we reached Crainlarich it was lunchtime and we all felt low, although each one of us was keeping that to ourselves. We stopped for something to eat at a local store and sat at a picnic table outside. At that stage I felt exhausted and was seriously concerned
about my ability to go another 30 miles. In fact, we were all suffering the effects of the wrong food the evening before when we had fish and chips. As lunch kicked in we all perked up
We continued along the A82 through Tyndrum and Bridge of Orchy. The scenery became grander as we passed Loch Tulla and entered Glencoe. Again the mixture of light, and cloud produced dramatic scenery and all of us had cameras at the ready. Our final descent past the Three Sisters finally split us up with Richard and I being well behind Andrew and John as we kept stopping to admire the views and take yet more photos. Eventually, we dropped off the A82 to join the old road down to the Youth Hostel.
Again we had a fine sunny, summers evening. Having washed clothes and got ourselves organised we set off for the walk back to the pub for a meal and realised that we were the meal. The place was a midgefest. There was a campsite close to the hostel where there was abundance of fires burning, no doubt to keep the little peskies away. When we got to the pub we would all have preferred to sit outside but that wasn’t an option.
Back at the hostel the midges continued to be a problem. I went to the toilets during the night. The window was open and as soon as I stepped inside I was swatting away. The room we were in also proved extremely hot, probably in part because the window was closed to keep midges out. I propped the door open to keep some air circulating but Andrew got up at about 5.00 am simply to get away from the heat.
There was some climbing to be done as we reached the end of the loch and started up to Crianlarich. By the time we reached Crainlarich it was lunchtime and we all felt low, although each one of us was keeping that to ourselves. We stopped for something to eat at a local store and sat at a picnic table outside. At that stage I felt exhausted and was seriously concerned
about my ability to go another 30 miles. In fact, we were all suffering the effects of the wrong food the evening before when we had fish and chips. As lunch kicked in we all perked upWe continued along the A82 through Tyndrum and Bridge of Orchy. The scenery became grander as we passed Loch Tulla and entered Glencoe. Again the mixture of light, and cloud produced dramatic scenery and all of us had cameras at the ready. Our final descent past the Three Sisters finally split us up with Richard and I being well behind Andrew and John as we kept stopping to admire the views and take yet more photos. Eventually, we dropped off the A82 to join the old road down to the Youth Hostel.
Again we had a fine sunny, summers evening. Having washed clothes and got ourselves organised we set off for the walk back to the pub for a meal and realised that we were the meal. The place was a midgefest. There was a campsite close to the hostel where there was abundance of fires burning, no doubt to keep the little peskies away. When we got to the pub we would all have preferred to sit outside but that wasn’t an option.
Back at the hostel the midges continued to be a problem. I went to the toilets during the night. The window was open and as soon as I stepped inside I was swatting away. The room we were in also proved extremely hot, probably in part because the window was closed to keep midges out. I propped the door open to keep some air circulating but Andrew got up at about 5.00 am simply to get away from the heat.
The Journey Day 11 Wanlockhead to Loch Lomond
Day 11 Wanlockhead to Loch Lomond
We were unsure about the route to take and opted to rejoin NCN74, given that the facilities the day before had been so good. The alternative, which was longer, was to head towards Paisley and NCN7. Our chosen route took us through a more urban route going through Hamilton, Rutherglen and many smaller places. It was a fairly easy route to follow and took us direct into Glasgow. We had stopped in Larkhall to load up with food and sun cream (hot and sunny once again). Also on the list was midge repellent as we had started to see the little blighters and had already collected one or two bites. Whilst there we got into conversation with a couple of lads who were admiring the bikes(?). “wher’re yous going?”, asks one. “John O Groats” is the answer. “Where’s that than?” is the next question. Next question is “Wher’re yous from?”. “Leeds”! is the answer. Where’s that than?”!!!
Once into Glasgow we looked for cycle facilities by the Clyde, which we found and which took us in turn to NCN7 towards Loch Lomond. The day’s ride improved dramatically at this point as we headed off on a mixture of old railway lines, canal paths and riverside tracks up through Dumbarton and towards Alexandria. The second part of our day gave us lots of stops for sightseeing and photo’s.
Phoning ahead to the hostel to see what we could do regards food, it turned out there was catering for school parties only. We decided to eat in Alexandria and then go on to the hostel as this would avoid a lengthy walk back into town. We found a local chippy where staff seemed quite surprised that we wanted fish with our chips – Andrew having a surreal conversation about the need to cook some fish if that’s what we really wanted as it turned out, fish and chips was a mistake, but this was for us to discover the next day.
We eventually arrived at the Loch Lomond hostel at about 7.3o pm being very impressed with the place and its facilities – apart from the drinks machine that is, as this seemed to have a grudge against Andrew.
Once into Glasgow we looked for cycle facilities by the Clyde, which we found and which took us in turn to NCN7 towards Loch Lomond. The day’s ride improved dramatically at this point as we headed off on a mixture of old railway lines, canal paths and riverside tracks up through Dumbarton and towards Alexandria. The second part of our day gave us lots of stops for sightseeing and photo’s.
Phoning ahead to the hostel to see what we could do regards food, it turned out there was catering for school parties only. We decided to eat in Alexandria and then go on to the hostel as this would avoid a lengthy walk back into town. We found a local chippy where staff seemed quite surprised that we wanted fish with our chips – Andrew having a surreal conversation about the need to cook some fish if that’s what we really wanted as it turned out, fish and chips was a mistake, but this was for us to discover the next day.
We eventually arrived at the Loch Lomond hostel at about 7.3o pm being very impressed with the place and its facilities – apart from the drinks machine that is, as this seemed to have a grudge against Andrew.
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